A moondial in the Alpilles, a village in the Haut-Var to which Louis XIV owes his birth, an antipope who disappeared in the Luberon, a Freemason sundial, a rather unusual wedding door, traces of the Resistance in Manosque, a trench from the First World War, contemporary art in a 17th-century church. There's much more to Provence than the clichés of lavender fields and picturesque villages where people play pétanque and drink pastis.